MONOCHROME Montre de Souscription 3
MONOCHROME's third collaboration, affectionally referred to as Montre de Souscription 3, once again celebrates the art of independent watchmaking and is made by Armin Strom. This timepiece fulfils our passion for an artisanal, low-volume approach to watchmaking, with a subtle twist that will please discerning collectors.
The acclaimed Gravity Equal Force is the topic of choice, for which we envisioned a movement made of Maillechort or German Silver. This material, which will slowly gain a patina, is a nod to historical watchmaking, inspired by Armin Strom's Zeitgeist piece unique. Over time, it will transition from a silvery tone to a delicate golden hue.
Armin Strom puts the main elements of the mechanical movement on the dial side, resulting in a spectacular 3D play of bridges, gears, levers, the micro-rotor and more. All this with a keen sense of traditional finishing, not often found in watches of this magnitude and style. The bridges expose the micro-rotor that winds the movement, as well as the motor barrel. For the first time in an automatic watch, the motor barrel is fitted with an innovative Geneva Stop Works mechanism to ensure a stable rate of energy from the main spring to the escapement.
Time is read on an openworked offset white opaline dial with polished, ruthenium-plated hands. The muted look continues with the small seconds subdial and the discrete power reserve indication on top of the motor barrel. The reverse side of the watch is also impeccably finished and exposes the escapement and anchor wheel. All this is set in a 42mm wide stainless steel case with a brushed and polished finish and characteristic lugs.
The MONOCHROME x Armin Strom Montre de Souscription 3 Gravity Equal Force Maillechort is limited to 33 pieces and will be sold via subscription only, a process that will sound familiar to those with some knowledge of watchmaking history.
Maillechort, a first for the Gravity Equal Force
For this Montre de Souscription, we wanted to combine the Gravity Equal Force's cutting-edge technology and distinctive look with our monochromatic vision of design. Using the openworked structure as a canvas, we've decided to make the movement's mainplate out of Maillechort, otherwise known as German Silver. This untreated metal alloy will slowly gain a patina, changing from a silvery tone to a light gold hue.
A watchmaking lesson on the wrist
The Gravity Equal Force is a true watchmaking lesson on the wrist, exposing most of its mechanical components front and centre. Its distinctive design is trademarked by an offset dial and three horizontal bridges over the micro-rotor, motor barrel and keyless works.
The motor barrel
The Gravity Equal Force features a so-called motor barrel, fitted with an innovative solution to ensure a stable release of energy from the mainspring to the escapement. A Maltese Cross on top of the barrel stops the mainspring from unwinding when the stored energy is too low, thus maintaining a stable amplitude and rate through the entire 72-hour power reserve.
A discreet and traditional take on the Gravity Equal Force, Armin Strom's watchmaking lesson on the wrist.
The MONOCHROME "Montre de Souscription" by Armin Strom
"It has always been our mission to educate readers on the art of watchmaking. The GEF can easily be described as a physical embodiment of that mission. It's a true watchmaking lesson on the wrist; a timepiece that keeps no secrets. It purposefully conveys how a mechanical watch works. It's also one of the very best decorated watches that I've seen in this price category.
The Armin Strom's Zeitgeist piece unique, with its stunning maillechort (also known as German Silver) main plate inspired us to choose this material for the main plate of the GEF. Although most movements these days are crafted from brass, back in the day, maillechort was used for mainplates and bridges. Its use in this Montre de Souscription is a nod to horological history. As watch enthusiasts know, maillechort will slowly gain a patina, changing from a silvery tone to a light gold hue. This, in due time, will create a striking contrast between the cold, technical architecture of the GEF and the warm, historically-inspired colour of the movement", explains Frank Geelen, founder of MONOCHROME.
Technically innovative independent watchmaking
The Calibre ASB19 inside the Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force holds nothing back, as virtually all of its components can be seen from either the front or the back. It is hand-finished with a mix of traditional finishing techniques, such as polished bevels with multiple sharp interior angles on the finger bridges. Not only that, but it also showcases innovative technological solutions such as the Motor Barrel. Instead of turning the arbour to wind the mainspring inside a drum, as in traditional barrel constructions, the motor barrel winds by turning the drum rather than the centre arbour.
The barrel is also fitted with a Maltese Cross that stops further unwinding of the main spring when the energy goes down, ensuring a stable force through the entire 72-hour power reserve. This is a genuine first in mechanical watchmaking and provides a stable amplitude and rate. Winding is done by a micro-rotor, which can seen above the motor barrel, on the front side of the watch.
On the back, a sapphire crystal reveals yet more details, such as the finger bridge that holds the escapement. The finishing on this side of the movement is done to the same degree, with hand-decorated parts finished with Geneva stripes, polished screws, bevelled screw slots, chamfered wheel spokes and large, hand-applied anglage displaying a multitude of sharp inner angles. The naturally warm colour of the German Silver is equally visible from this side as well.
El abono y el contenido del paquete
We will offer the watch for subscription for a maximum duration of two weeks, or until all 33 pieces are sold. A € 7,500 EUR down payment will be requested upon ordering the MdS3. This amount is non-refundable and does not include VAT. When pre-orders are closed, the Armin Strom watchmakers will start working on our Gravity Equal Force Maillechort, which comes on a grey Alcantara-like calf leather strap with a signed stainless steel pin buckle.
Deliveries are expected to start and be completed in Q4 of 2023.
- Caso
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- 41mm diameter x 12.65mm thickness
- 48.09mm lug-to-lug distance
- stainless steel case, brushed with polished accents
- sapphire crystals with anti-reflective coating front and back
- 30m or 3 atm water-resistant
- Marque
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- offset white opaline dial with small seconds subdial
- polished and ruthenium-plated steel hands, filled with Super-LumiNova
- discreet power reserve indication on the motor barrel
- Movimiento
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- Calibre ASB19, developed and manufactured in-house
- Automatic winding with micro-rotor and stop-works mechanism
- 202 components, including 28 jewels
- main plate in Maillechort (German Silver) with frosted finish
- 3.5Hz frequency or 25,200vph, 72-hour power reserve
- screwed balance with steel spiral
- off-centre time indication
- entirely decorated by hand
- Strap
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- grey Alcantara-like calf leather strap with signed steel pin buckle
- 20mm width at the lugs/case, 18mm width at the buckle
MONOCHROME Montre de Souscription 3
The price of the MONOCHROME Montre de Souscription 3 is € 22,900 EUR (excluding taxes). It comes on a grey Alcantara-like calfskin leather strap with an Armin Strom signed steel pin buckle. The price also includes free insured shipping to your desired location. The watch is covered by a 5-year warranty from Armin Strom.
You can order the watch, by paying the (non-refundable) deposit of € 7,500 EUR (excluding taxes) and the remaining amount will be charged when the watch is ready to be shipped.
VAT or taxes will depend on your local Value Added Tax (no clue what kind of value your government will provide for the VAT, but it's something we simply can't avoid.)
Our MONOCHROME Montre de Souscription 3 is currently sold out. Register here to be placed on the waiting list and you will be notified if any of the allocations become available.
